Bird spikes do work on pigeons — but only on the surfaces where pigeons actually land, and only when the spikes cover the full width of that surface so there is nowhere to touch down. Fitted correctly on a fence top, wall coping, window ledge or gutter run, a good set of spikes makes those spots physically impossible to perch on. The reason people find them disappointing is almost always one of three installation mistakes, or the wrong type of spike for the job.
Why pigeons choose the spots they do
Pigeons are creatures of habit. Once a bird finds a safe, flat perch with a clear view — a fence top, a parapet wall, a window sill, a gutter lip — it comes back, tells other pigeons, and the group returns daily. The mess, noise and nesting material build up quickly from there.
The good news is that pigeons are not problem-solvers. They will not work around a deterrent the way squirrels or foxes might. If every inch of their preferred ledge is spiked and there is nowhere else on your property with the same appeal, they will move on and find a perch elsewhere. The challenge is being thorough, not clever.
Where spikes work well — and where they don't
They work well on: fence tops, wall copings, window sills, gutters (the outer lip), roof ridges, ledges on sheds and outbuildings, AC unit tops, sign edges, and satellite dish housings.
They are less useful on: open flat roofs where pigeons roost in the middle (the perimeter can be spiked but the interior needs netting or another method), active nests (UK law prohibits disturbing a nest with eggs or chicks in it — spikes must go on before nesting begins), and very wide horizontal surfaces where birds simply land away from the spiked edge.
For open flat roofs, a combination of perimeter spikes and bird netting over the main area is the most complete solution.
The three reasons spikes fail on pigeons
1. Gaps in coverage. This is the single most common mistake. If you spike 80% of a fence run and leave a 30 cm gap at a post or corner, pigeons will find it within days and use it as their new landing strip. Cover the entire run — including the tops of posts and any flat rail sections.
2. Spikes that are too short or too narrow. Budget plastic spikes are often a single row of short pins covering a narrow base. Pigeons are stocky birds — they can land at the edge of a fence coping, sidle along, and find a stable foothold between a row of short spikes. Taller, multi-row spikes in irregular heights are harder to navigate around.
3. Cheap spikes that degrade quickly. UV exposure is brutal on outdoor plastics. Many inexpensive spikes go brittle and snap within a single winter, leaving stubs that barely inconvenience a pigeon. If you have replaced spikes more than once, the material quality is the problem rather than the concept.
What makes one set of spikes better than another for pigeons specifically
For pure pigeon deterrence on a ledge or wall coping, the key specs to look for are:
- Height: The tallest spikes should reach at least 30–36 mm. Pigeons will attempt to step between short spikes.
- Multiple rows: A single central row leaves the edges accessible. Multiple rows across the width of the strip mean there is no clear landing zone.
- Full-width coverage: The strip needs to cover the full width of your surface, or be splittable to achieve that without gaps.
- Material longevity: UV-stabilised virgin polypropylene outlasts recycled or unstabilised plastic significantly in UK outdoor conditions.
ThornGuard's strips use a three-height design — 12 mm, 22 mm and 36 mm spikes — across a base that folds and wraps to cover fence tops and posts on three sides. The irregular height pattern means there is no predictable gap a pigeon can step into, and the UV-stabilised polypropylene is built to last outdoors rather than snap after a winter. You can read more about fitting them on the ThornGuard fitting guide.
Does the surface material affect whether spikes stick or stay?
Yes, and this is worth thinking through before you buy. Spikes can be fixed in three ways:
- Screws — the most secure option on timber fence panels, fence posts, wooden sheds and some masonry. Pre-drill pilot holes to avoid splitting.
- Cable ties — useful on metal railings, gutters and any rail where screwing isn't practical.
- Adhesive pads — necessary on uPVC window sills, render, composite decking and any surface you cannot or would prefer not to drill. Use purpose-made waterproof adhesive pads rather than standard double-sided tape, which lifts in damp conditions.
On smooth uPVC or render, thoroughly clean and dry the surface before applying adhesive pads — even light grease or dust prevents a proper bond.
Do spikes harm pigeons or other birds?
No — a correctly fitted deterrent spike does not injure birds. The spikes are closely spaced enough that a pigeon landing on them feels the resistance and takes off again; the bird does not get a run-up that would push it onto the tips with any force. Small garden birds such as sparrows, robins and blue tits are light enough to land between spikes without difficulty, which is why spikes are a targeted deterrent rather than a blanket one.
ThornGuard spikes, like all reputable deterrent products, are designed to deter rather than harm. This also means they are legal — you can fit them to your own property without any permit. For more detail on the legal position, see our guide to bird spike legality in the UK.
What if I have pigeons AND squirrels using the same fence?
This is where standard flat bird spikes let people down. A flat single-height strip is a minor inconvenience to a squirrel, which simply walks across the even surface. ThornGuard's irregular three-height spike pattern disrupts that confident trot — the 36 mm spikes in particular make it very difficult for a squirrel to find a stable path across the top of a fence.
If pigeons are your main problem but you are also seeing squirrels raiding a bird feeder by running along your fence, a single product that handles both animals saves you fitting two separate deterrents. Our post on stopping squirrels getting onto your roof covers the wider squirrel access problem if that's on your radar too.
How much coverage do I need?
Measure the full run you want to protect — don't forget corners and post tops. As a rough guide:
- A 4 m ThornGuard pack (10 strips) covers up to 4 m as a full-width strip, or up to 12 m if you split the strip lengthways for narrower surfaces such as thin wall copings.
- An 8 m pack (20 strips) covers up to 8 m full-width, or up to 24 m split.
For a typical 6-panel garden fence (roughly 10–12 m), a single 4 m pack split lengthways usually covers the run, with enough left for a post or two. If you need to cover full-width fence tops without splitting, or have a longer run, the 8 m pack makes more sense and works out cheaper per metre.
Both packs include screws and cable ties. Waterproof adhesive pads are available separately for surfaces you can't drill.
See the full product details on the ThornGuard animal spikes page.
Common questions
Do bird spikes work for pigeons on a flat roof?
On the perimeter of a flat roof — the parapet wall or the edge — spikes work well and stop pigeons using those spots as a landing and launching pad. For the central open area of a flat roof where birds roost in the middle, spikes alone are not enough; netting stretched across the full area is the more complete solution for that specific situation.
Will spikes stop pigeons if they're already nesting nearby?
Spikes prevent landing, so fitting them before pigeons establish a nest is much easier than dealing with an active one. Under UK law you cannot disturb an active nest, eggs or chicks — you must wait until the nest is abandoned before removing it and fitting spikes to prevent a return next season. Fit spikes in late winter (January to February) before the main nesting season begins in March.
Are cheap bird spikes worth buying, or do they just snap?
Inexpensive spikes made from standard or recycled plastic often become brittle within one to two winters of UV exposure and temperature cycling, and the pins snap off. At that point they stop deterring birds and become a litter problem on your fence. Spikes made from UV-stabilised virgin polypropylene cost a little more upfront but don't need replacing every year — over two or three seasons they work out cheaper.
Originally published at ThornGuard
